A Farewell to Oman: Memories, Mosques, and Chai Kharak
Today, I had (unfortunately) my last excursion here in Oman – for this time. I hope that either I will find a way to return, or be given the opportunity to come back to this beautiful country, with its hospitable, warm, friendly, and welcoming people. There is hardly a better word to use in this setting than the famous Arabic expression 'Insh'Allah' – meaning 'God willing.'
For those of you who have read my previous posts, you've probably already figured out that today had to begin with a cup of Chai Kharak – of course – 10 points to anyone who guessed correctly!
Many of you have been asking about Luqman, the incredible driver who played such an important role in making this journey unforgettable. I can't say enough about how hospitable, kind, and service-oriented he is. He's truly one of a kind, and I'm grateful for all the ways he helped make this adventure even more special! If anyone is planning to go to Muscat and is interested in his contact information, feel free to reach out to me on any of my social media, and I'll be happy to share it!
First on today's agenda was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque – a magnificent building located centrally in the city of Muscat. Sultan Qaboos bin Said decided in 1995 that it was time for Oman to have its own 'Grand Mosque,' and six years later, in 2001, it was completed as a gift to the people.
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is only open to non-Muslims between 8:00 AM and 11:00 AM from Saturdays to Thursdays, and is naturally closed on Fridays for Jum'ah (the Friday prayer).
The mosque is the largest in Oman, covering an area of 416,000 square meters. The mosque itself can accommodate up to 8,000 people inside, while up to 12,000 people can gather outside, bringing the total capacity to 20,000.
As you enter the mosque (of course, with the right foot first – as one always does when entering holy places for Muslims), you are immediately struck by its breathtaking beauty! The floor is adorned with a stunning Iranian carpet, imported and woven by 600 Iranian women over four years. The carpet is 70x60 meters in size and weighs a staggering 21 tons! For those of you more than casually interested in regional carpets, the patterns are a blend of designs from Tabriz, Kashan, and Isfahan, which are different regions in Iran. Moving your gaze away from the magnificent carpet and looking up at the dome, you will witness a 14-meter-high chandelier, gilded in gold. This chandelier is decorated with no less than 600,000 Swarovski crystals and weighs a mere 8.5 tons – quite light compared to the carpet's 21 tons... Well, one must indulge when building a mosque, especially when you are the absolute leader of an absolute monarchy. It should be said, however, that the people of Oman are very happy with their Sultan – just so you know! Unfortunately, the situation is not so favorable with other monarchs around the world...
On the grounds of Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, there is also an Islamic center. Inside the center (which was more like a room), you are offered free coffee, water, and yes, you guessed it – dates. Today, I politely declined the dates but was very grateful to receive a bottle of water to combat the scorching heat, as the temperature was well up to 40°C again today. Inside the center, you can also ask the staff any questions you have about Islam. As someone who is naturally curious and enjoys learning, I, of course, took the opportunity. All in all, I would conclude that this was a rewarding experience that led to some reflection – both during the visit and after.
From the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, we continued to Muscat's old town. First stop: Bait Munza Gallery, owned by Sayyida Susan Al-Said, the Queen of Oman. When I tried to haggle the price down by a few Omani rials, the gallery manager responded, "I'm sorry, but Her Majesty doesn't allow me." Despite the unsuccessful haggling, I found the artwork so beautiful that I ended up purchasing them anyway. Even though I had locked up my wallet to prevent any more rials from slipping out of it, I couldn't resist. I'll always remember this trip when I see the pictures hanging in my living room back home.
Next, just across the street, was the Bait Al Zubair Museum. The objects inside are primarily part of the Zubair family's private collection of traditional Omani items. The Zubair family is one of Oman's wealthiest, and their family business is ranked 25th among the 100 richest companies in the Middle East by Forbes.
In my opinion, this was an excellent and informative museum where you could absorb a lot of knowledge about khanjars, traditional clothing for both men and women, their regional connections, jewelry, household items, swords, firearms, stamps, coins, medals, maps, and much more!
From the Bait Al Zubair Museum, we headed towards Qasr Al Alam (The Flag Palace). This palace is primarily used by the Sultan of Oman for ceremonial purposes and is located in the heart of Muscat's old town. The palace was built in 1972 and is where the Sultan receives foreign guests – something Luqman mentioned happens quite often. The palace showcases a beautiful and grand modern Islamic architectural style, surrounded by lush gardens and the Mutrah harbor nearby. Looking up at the hillside surrounding the palace, you can see the historic forts, Al Jalali and Al Mirani, built during the Portuguese invasion of Muscat in the 1500s. Fantastic!
After a short visit and the obligatory photos at Qasr Al Alam, we made our way to the 'National Museum.' The museum opened in 2013, and in my opinion, it is a top-tier and fantastic museum! Omanis themselves refer to it as their flagship cultural institution – and rightly so, if you ask me! The museum is designed so that you move from room to room on a historical journey, from the earliest evidence of human settlement in Oman to the present day. It's truly a remarkable museum that I highly recommend if you ever plan to visit Oman! Luqman told me that not long ago, he had brought an American history teacher here. Apparently, Luqman became so concerned that (1) the teacher had gotten lost or (2) had suffered a heart attack and been carried out through a back exit. But no... After 3 hours, Luqman let out a sigh of relief when the teacher emerged, totally ecstatic about everything he had seen and learned!
Once we were done in the old town of Muscat, it was time to head back to Muscat and visit the final attraction of the day – the Royal Opera House Muscat. Just like with the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, who was highly interested in music and the arts, decided that it was time for Oman – specifically Muscat – to have its own opera house. The order was given in 2001, and on October 12, 2011, the doors opened with a premiere performance of Puccini's Turandot, performed by the Spanish tenor Plácido Domingo.
One can safely say that Sultan Qaboos bin Said didn't hold back when it came to opulence and luxury here either. However, the ticket prices for attending an opera performance, which mainly occurs between September and May, are quite affordable for the average Omani.
The guide at the opera house told me that this particular opera house is unique compared to others around the world. In addition to showcasing classical works, it also invites jazz musicians, traditional performers, and dancers. It would have been amazing to see one of these performances in such a magnificent hall!
After my guided tour at the Royal Opera House Muscat, we got back in the car to begin our journey back to the hotel. Luqman asked if I was interested in one last cup of Chai Kharak – which, of course, I would never say no to again in my life. Once you've tasted this incredibly delicious yet extremely hot drink, it's hard to stop! It's probably as hard as quitting smoking or snuffing (?).
My last evening in Oman will end with a little 'Cubano' and a drink at the '1897 Cigar Lounge & Bar' here at the hotel. I'll puff away while reflecting on all the wonderful memories I've created during my 8 days here in Oman.
The best part is that now, when I board the plane tomorrow night and leave this amazing country, Oman, I know that I've made a new connection, which developed over just 8 short days into a bond where we now call each other 'Brother' and/or 'Habibi.' Despite all the differences we may have – whether in tradition, culture, or religion – one thing is clear: when we strip away all the human-constructed layers, we are, at the end of the day, just human beings made of flesh and blood. Try looking beyond the differences and seek the commonalities that unite us all across cultures, religions, and traditions.
If we never meet again, Luqman, at least we'll stay in touch on WhatsApp – Insh'Allah!
Puff, puff cigar smoke – UggeTheExplorer out!