A New Adventure in the Amazing Oman!
Today, Luqman had planned an excursion to Nizwa Souq, Nizwa Fort, the Aflaj Irrigation Systems of Oman, Al Hoota Cave (which was unfortunately closed for maintenance), and finally, Birkat Al Mouz before we returned to Muscat. And, of course, we had more delicious cups of Chai Kharak along the way!
As usual, Luqman arrived exactly on time, 10:00 AM sharp, outside the hotel, as arranged via WhatsApp late last night. The moment Luqman stepped out of the car to greet me, I could tell our relationship had evolved beyond that of just a driver and tourist. He greeted me with a warm "Hello, Brother!" and then, "How are you, Habibi?". In Arabic, "Habibi" is usually a term of endearment used for family or a partner, but Luqman explained that it's also commonly used among close friends. He likely felt the need to clarify his choice of words after saying it, so I responded with a smile, mentioning that I had enjoyed a delicious breakfast with fresh fruit and muesli. I then asked, "How was your morning prayer, Habibi?". We both laughed and hopped into the car for the first stop of the day: a coffee shop for our first cup of Chai Kharak! It was the perfect way to kick off the excursion.
The drive from Muscat to Nizwa Souq and Nizwa Fort takes just under two hours. During the journey, we had plenty of time to chat, and we discussed everything from TV shows like "Vikings," "Narcos," "Breaking Bad," "Better Call Saul," and "The Last Kingdom." Luqman told me he had become especially interested in Vikings and the Viking era after watching the series "Vikings." He explained that there was almost a national mourning in Oman when Ragnar Lothbrok was killed by King Ælle in Season 4. It was a topic everyone was talking about when that episode aired. Not wanting to end up stranded in the desert with scorpions, camels, and goats, I didn't hesitate to agree (it was indeed a tough episode of "Vikings"). But enough about that!
Finally, we arrived in Nizwa, the largest city in the Ad Dakhiliyah region of Oman, which was also the capital of Oman in the 5th and 6th centuries. Unlike Muscat, the air in Nizwa is very dry, as it's located further inland, while Muscat is by the coast.
Luqman suggested we visit Nizwa Souq first, as it would be closed between 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM. Souqs in Oman typically close in the middle of the day, especially during the summer when temperatures can exceed 40°C, as they did today. The main difference between Mutrah Souq in Muscat and Nizwa Souq is that Nizwa's souq is home to highly skilled potters and ceramists. Additionally, Nizwa is famous for its dates, so we, of course, had to visit the date souq. Upon entering, I was offered dates from every direction, and Luqman explained that they were from Oman, Saudi Arabia, and other places. Some were sweet and delicious, while others were dry and not as tasty. At one point, I had to kindly ask Luqman to inform the vendors that I had more than enough dates for the day, which he did with a smile. After a quick break, we decided to move on from the souq and head to Nizwa Fort, while Luqman stopped at a mosque for his prayer.
Nizwa Fort, built during the reign of Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Yarubi in the 18th century, took 12 years to complete. The fort stands 34 meters tall with a diameter of 45 meters. The guide explained that the fort's design made it difficult for invaders to enter, as the main entrance was narrow and featured seven massive wooden doors. After each door, there were sharp turns, and traps were set up nearby to thwart intruders—some involving pits or boiling liquids being poured on them.
In the late 19th century, a new Imam, Imam Salt bin Malik Al Kharusi, ruled Nizwa and wanted a palace built next to the fort. His request was granted, and the Nizwa Palace was designed with rooms for students, visiting guests, military operations, a library, a coffee room, prayer rooms, and even a secret meeting room—along with, of course, rooms to store dates. What would one do without them?
After touring both the fort and the palace, I met Luqman at the exit. He suggested we visit one of the Aflaj Irrigation Systems of Oman for a refreshing dip. The Aflaj system uses gravity to channel water from underground sources into ditches, ensuring a steady water supply for agriculture and rural areas. These systems date back to 2500 BC, according to archaeological evidence, and five of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Unfortunately, when we arrived, it seemed that every family in Nizwa had the same idea. We exchanged a look and decided to skip the swim and move on to the next stop: Al Hoota Cave.
Al Hoota Cave, discovered by a shepherd centuries ago, is located at the base of Jabal Shams, Oman's version of the Grand Canyon. The cave is around 2 million years old and stretches 4.5 kilometers into the mountainside, although only the first 500 meters are easily accessible to tourists. For the more adventurous, guided hikes are available. Unfortunately, Al Hoota Cave was closed for maintenance, so we made a quick detour to the museum and then proceeded to Birkat Al Mouz.
Birkat Al Mouz is an ancient village ruin located on the winding road between Nizwa and Muscat, surrounded by banana plantations and—of course—dates. There were so many dates that I feared they might haunt my dreams tonight. When we arrived at Birkat Al Mouz, I tried to imagine what life must have been like for the people who once lived here, surrounded by lush plantations. It must have been a beautiful sight to wake up to—until you realize the grueling workday in the 40+ degree heat was about to begin.
To my surprise, the Aflaj water system was also present here. I took a walk along the edge of the system, with three local boys as my guides. While they sprinted effortlessly, I carefully navigated the path, wondering if my travel insurance would cover a fall into the irrigation ditches!