Conquering the Heights: Driving the Sani Pass into Lesotho

Today, I embarked on a thrilling adventure—driving up the iconic Sani Pass, one of the most famous and exhilarating mountain routes in Southern Africa. The drive was truly something else, with breathtaking scenery and an ever-changing landscape as we ascended. The road conditions, however, were far from easy. The Sani Pass is a rugged dirt and rocky track, winding through the mountains with no security barriers to protect you from the steep drops on either side. That said, it's not as dangerous as it may seem. Aldo, our experienced guide from Roof of Africa Tours, assured us that the road has been safely navigated by many for decades. He explained that there have only been two accidents on this route in the last 20 years, and that the drivers who tackle the pass are well-trained and respectful of one another.

For this trip, I joined Roof of Africa Tours, with Aldo as our driver and guide. It was just the four of us: Aldo, myself, and two female solo adventurers from the USA, which made for a cozy and personal experience. Aldo is incredibly knowledgeable and clearly an experienced driver—his calm and professional demeanor kept us feeling safe the entire way up and down the pass. Before starting his career as a tour guide, Aldo worked as a research assistant in wildlife conservation all over Africa, with a particular focus on bird conservation. This experience has given him an extensive knowledge of the local environment and wildlife, which made the journey even more insightful. Aldo had also brought along some coffee, tea, and homemade cookies that his wife made, which we enjoyed at one of the scenic viewpoints on our way up the Sani Pass towards Lesotho.

After we crossed the border and had our passports stamped, we continued our journey to a nearby Basotho village, just a short drive from the border. The people here lead incredibly tough lives, working as herders in a mountainous and isolated environment. The Basotho are resilient and resourceful, but life is not easy for them, especially since Lesotho is one of the world's poorest countries. The herders, some as young as 10 years old, look after sheep and other livestock, enduring the harsh conditions of the mountains to survive.

Unfortunately, not everyone is treated equally in this community. While we were driving up the pass, we passed a man collecting wood along the road. Aldo explained that the man suffers from mental health issues and is not well-accepted by the village. His survival depends on gathering sticks and wood to trade for his daily meal by walking up and down the Sani Pass every single day. Seeing this in person hits you differently—it makes you reflect on how, despite the resources we have, some people still live under such harsh conditions. It was a sobering moment that left me with a lot to think about as we continued our journey.

After leaving the Basotho village, we made our way to the highest pub in Africa, located at the Sani Mountain Lodge, which we had passed earlier on our way up. The pub, perched at an impressive 2,874 meters above sea level, was a stark contrast to the harsh realities we had just witnessed. I found myself needing a moment to absorb it all, and as we sat down, I decided to try the local Lesotho brew, Maluti, along with lunch. It was a simple pleasure in a day full of striking contrasts, and the experience of being at such a remote and high-altitude location was unforgettable.

While we were at the pub, we were served by a friendly gentleman named Mokete. He told me that he comes from a Basotho village located eight hours away by car. Mokete shared how he is fortunate to have his job at the pub, working for three weeks straight, followed by a week off to visit his family. I had the chance to chat with him for a while, showing him some of my photos from around the world, including landscapes, wildlife, and birds. I also showed him pictures of Norway, where I'm from, telling him about places like Geirangerfjord, Lofoten, and Hardangervidda. Mokete was amazed to see people living on small islands in the Atlantic Ocean. It's moments like these that remind me of the beauty of travel and the power of visual storytelling in bridging cultures, especially with the help of the internet.

As the day came to a close, Aldo took the other two adventurers back down the pass, while I stayed behind to relax. I was shown to my cabin for the night, a cozy little hut where they had already prepared a fire in the fireplace. To my surprise, when I pulled back the sheets, I discovered that a hot water bottle had been placed in my bed to keep me warm—a thoughtful touch that made the night even more special.

Here are a few photos I captured during my journey, giving you a glimpse into the rugged beauty of Sani Pass, the people of Lesotho, and the unforgettable experiences that made this trip one of a kind.

Tomorrow, I'll be heading back down to Drakensberg and Premier Resort Sani Pass, but today was a truly unforgettable experience. Not only was it my 49th country on the list, but it also gave me a deeper appreciation for the resilience of the people of Lesotho and the power of nature in shaping our world.