Sri Lanka: From a Near-Death Experience to Rainforest Serenity
Waking up at 03:00, I could hardly contain my excitement for the day ahead. I was about to explore the Sinharaja Forest Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I was eager to see what it had in store. What I didn't anticipate was how the day would unfold — far more exciting, and terrifying, than I could've imagined. But more on that shortly...
At 03:45, my driver arrived as planned, and we set off for the rainforest. As we drove through the sleepy villages, I noticed that many locals were already up, preparing for long commutes to the cities, such as Colombo, for work. The drive was peaceful at first, but there was an odd feeling in the air, an unshakable sense of unease that I couldn't quite place. My driver seemed quieter than usual, and I couldn't help but wonder if something was off.
The unease turned to full-on panic as we were about three-quarters of the way to Sinharaja. As we approached a left-hand bend in the road, I felt the car drift toward the right, and I turned to see that my driver was fast asleep behind the wheel! In that moment, everything felt like it was happening in slow motion. The car was heading directly for a steep 15-meter drop, and I knew I had mere seconds to act. Without thinking, I slapped the driver awake while letting out a primal shout — I'm sure it startled the entire village.
Incredibly, the driver woke up just in time to slam on the brakes. The car skidded to a stop, mere centimeters from the drop. I don't think I've ever been so terrified in my life — I genuinely believed I was going to die today. Fortunately, it wasn't my time!
Once we got out of the car, I was so shaken up and angry that I needed a few minutes to compose myself. After some time, I reluctantly helped the driver attempt to get the car unstuck from the wet mud, but it was no use. At that point, he arranged for me to take a Tuk-Tuk for the rest of the journey to Sinharaja.
The rainforest, however, delivered in every way I had hoped. The dense canopy above created a thick veil of green, and as I walked deeper into the forest, the air grew cooler and more fragrant with the earthy scent of damp foliage. The sounds alone were worth the trip — a true meditation for the soul. The symphony of chirping birds, rustling leaves, and distant calls of unseen animals filled the air, creating an atmosphere of serenity and mystery. It was as though the forest itself was alive, telling its ancient story through sound.
As we ventured deeper, the wildlife revealed itself in subtle and beautiful ways. We spotted a variety of snakes, some coiled quietly in the underbrush, while others slithered across the forest floor, their scales glistening in the dappled sunlight that filtered through the trees.
Frogs, both small and large, hopped from one wet rock to another, their croaks adding to the forest's chorus. Birds of vibrant colors darted through the trees, their wings flashing in the sunlight, and lizards scurried across the tree trunks and forest floor, blending in with the surroundings but still catching our eyes with their graceful movements.
The highlight, however, came when we encountered a female Purple-faced Langur, cradling her baby close to her chest. The sight was unforgettable — the mother's protective gaze and the baby's tiny, delicate hands wrapped around her, nestled into the security of her fur. It was a tender moment that encapsulated the profound beauty and rawness of life in the rainforest. I knew that this encounter would be the perfect moment to end my time in this incredible place.
After the excitement of exploring the forest, we paused for a much-needed break, enjoying some tea and Helapa. Helapa is a traditional Sri Lankan dish made from rice flour, jaggery, and coconut milk, often wrapped in kenda leaves. It's a simple yet delicious treat with a natural sweetness from the jaggery, making it a perfect snack to recharge while exploring the forest. The warm tea and the comforting taste of Helapa, combined with the tranquil sounds of the forest around me, offered a peaceful moment of reflection. It was a chance to appreciate the beauty and serenity of the wilderness before we continued our journey back towards the entrance of the rainforest.
However, the peace and serenity of the forest was soon replaced with a stark reminder of the tense situation that had unfolded earlier. The drive back to the hotel was uneventful, save for the driver saying "Mongoose" and me responding with a noncommittal "mhm." When we finally arrived, I knew that this would be the last time I'd be going out with him. I told him that after today's breach of trust, I could no longer continue with the excursions. We had a tense exchange about money that had already been paid, but after some negotiation, I decided to let it go.
The day should've ended there, but as I undressed in my hotel room and prepared for a shower, I had the shock of my life. My boxers were covered in blood. After a moment of confusion, I remembered something the guide had told me: leeches. Sure enough, a leech (or more) had crawled into my belly button and been feeding on me. The blood was flowing constantly, which sent me into a panic. I contacted my travel insurance, who responded immediately, helping me arrange a trip to the hospital. Huge thanks to Fremtind Forsikring and SOS International for their quick and efficient help!
At the hospital, the doctor prescribed me three different medications to prevent any potential infections. Once I returned to my hotel, I was completely exhausted, physically and emotionally.