The Gambia: The Smiling Coast of Africa – Day Four Exploring Tujereng, Arlaheen River, and Gunjur Forest
After the unforeseen change in guides the previous day, I woke up feeling both curious and excited to meet my new guide, Mustapha Kassama, and begin another thrilling day of birdwatching across The Gambia's pristine landscapes.
Meeting My New Guide and the Journey to Tujereng
Switching guides mid-trip can sometimes be unsettling, especially after connecting with someone like Yankuba. However, all concerns faded quickly when Mustapha Kassama arrived at 07:00 sharp, greeting me with a warm smile as we set off for the day's adventures. Mustapha is not only a trustworthy and punctual guide but also one of the most experienced birdwatching experts in The Gambia.
Mustapha has been birdwatching since he was a young boy and has since become a highly professional and knowledgeable guide. Growing up in Kuloro village, he became the president of the Kuloro Bird Club, a testament to his passion for bird conservation. His extensive experience has earned him a position as a member of The Gambia Birdwatching Guides Association, through which he gained vast knowledge of wildlife and flora not only in The Gambia but also in Senegal.
Mustapha's dedication to his craft goes beyond just guiding. He spends a significant amount of time in the field, deepening his understanding of birds, wildlife, and flora. As a responsible father, Mustapha's hard work as a guide ensures that his children can attend school and receive basic healthcare, making him not only an excellent guide but also a role model for his community.
If you're ever looking for birdwatching trips from the coast to upcountry or even longer excursions to Senegal, Mustapha is highly recommended. His expertise makes birdwatching in The Gambia fantastic for both keen birders and occasional watchers alike.
You can follow Mustapha and contact him for more information about birdwatching tours via:
- Website: https://www.birdwatchinggambia.org/
- Facebook: Mustapha Kassama
- Email: kassamamustapha@yahoo.com
- WhatsApp: +220 751 4636
Exploring Tujereng: A Coastal Haven for Birds
Our first destination was the charming coastal village of Tujereng, situated along the main coastal road, southwest of Banjul. This area is known for its tranquil beaches, rural farmlands, and a unique mix of bush and forest environments. What makes Tujereng particularly appealing for birdwatchers is the diverse array of habitats it offers. From the coastal shores to the woodlands, where you can observe a wide variety of birdlife, it's a region full of surprises.
Tujereng is home to several notable bird species, making it a birdwatcher's paradise. In the coastal areas, you can often spot waders and shorebirds like herons and egrets. In the more forested parts, you're likely to encounter raptors, bee-eaters, and turacos, while woodlands provide shelter for sunbirds, rollers, and other songbirds. Whether you're a seasoned birder or just starting out, Tujereng offers opportunities to observe a wide range of avian life.
The quiet ambiance, away from the bustle of the city, made the experience even more rewarding. As we walked through the village, Mustapha shared fascinating stories about the area's history and the people who live here. He also emphasized the importance of local conservation efforts that are underway to protect both the bird populations and the environment itself.
The Scenic and Serene Arlaheen River
After leaving Tujereng, we made our way to the picturesque Arlaheen River, which serves as a natural border between The Gambia and Senegal. Known for its serene beauty and rich biodiversity, the Arlaheen River flows through a combination of wetlands and forests, creating an ideal habitat for a wide variety of bird species and wildlife. Its tranquil surroundings offer a perfect retreat for nature lovers seeking a more peaceful, intimate birdwatching experience.
We embarked on a boat trip along the river, slowly gliding through the calm waters, allowing us to experience the landscape from a different perspective. The gentle breeze and the rhythmic sounds of water lapping against the boat added to the soothing atmosphere. As we ventured further along the river, it became clear just how teeming with life the area was. Among the wildlife we encountered were several bird species known to frequent the riverbanks and wetlands, such as the striking African Fish Eagle, the Giant Kingfisher, and the impressive Goliath Heron. Watching these majestic birds in their natural habitat was a highlight of the day.
Beyond birdwatching, we were fortunate to catch sight of other river dwellers, including a Marsh Mongoose making a brief appearance near the water's edge. The diverse ecosystem of the Arlaheen River made this part of the trip a truly unforgettable experience, as we felt connected to nature in one of the region's most peaceful, unspoiled environments.
The Final Stop: Gunjur Forest, A Birdwatcher's Paradise
As the day drew to a close, we headed to our final destination, the lush and biodiverse Gunjur Forest, located not far from the coastal village of Gunjur. Known for its extensive woodland and rich birdlife, the forest is home to hundreds of species, making it one of The Gambia's premier birdwatching spots.
Our exploration of the forest began with a visit to a secluded bird hide, where we quietly observed the vibrant birdlife around us. After spending some time soaking in the peaceful atmosphere, we set off on a walk through the forest's dense trails. As we wandered deeper into the woodland, Mustapha's expertise proved invaluable, pointing out birds and wildlife that I would have missed on my own. While birdwatching was our main focus, the forest held other surprises. At one point, we encountered a snake slithering across the path, likely a non-venomous Striped Grass Snake. It was a fascinating reminder of the rich diversity of wildlife thriving in this natural habitat.
One of the day's personal highlights for me came when I finally spotted an African Pygmy Kingfisher, a bird I had been hoping to see. As someone who really enjoys Kingfishers, this was a moment of excitement and fulfillment. The vibrant colors and tiny size of the Pygmy Kingfisher made it a true delight to behold in such a wild setting.
Beyond birdwatching, Gunjur Forest also offers insights into The Gambia's wider ecosystem. Mustapha explained how the local communities rely on the forest for traditional medicine, fruits, and firewood, while conservation efforts are being developed to protect this vital environment from deforestation and habitat loss. The serenity and the dense canopy of Gunjur Forest made it feel like we had stepped into another world, where time slowed down, and nature took center stage.
Reflection and Return to Bakau
After a full day of exploration and incredible birdwatching, we began our journey back to Bakau, driving through the rural landscapes of The Gambia, where the setting sun bathed everything in a warm, golden light. The quiet hum of the car and the occasional bird call provided the perfect backdrop for reflecting on the day's experiences.
The serene landscapes of Tujereng, the calm beauty of the Arlaheen River, and the enchanting forest of Gunjur each offered their own unique, unforgettable moments of connection with nature. From the peaceful riverbanks where we watched birds gliding across the water to the dense, mysterious forest paths of Gunjur, where every step revealed something new, it felt like the day had been a deep immersion into the heart of The Gambia's natural wonders.
As I looked out the window, I couldn't help but feel grateful for Mustapha's expertise and guidance. His deep respect for The Gambia's ecosystems, his ability to spot even the most elusive species, and his passion for bird conservation made this day far more than just a typical tour—it was a learning experience, filled with insights that deepened my appreciation for the country's wildlife and habitats. His stories, knowledge, and dedication to conservation truly enriched the adventure.
Looking ahead, I felt excited for what the rest of the week would bring. With Mustapha as my guide, I knew that each day would offer new discoveries, and I looked forward to more captivating encounters with the diverse wildlife that makes The Gambia such a remarkable place for birdwatching and nature exploration.