The Gambia: The Smiling Coast of Africa – Day Two of Exploring History, Wildlife, and the River

After an incredible first day of birdwatching in Kotu Creek, I woke up filled with excitement for day two of my journey through The Gambia. The plan for the day was to head inland, exploring more remote parts of the country, encountering both historical landmarks and the rich natural beauty of the region. The day would be long, with an adventurous drive taking about 7-8 hours, but I was ready for what lay ahead.

The Scenic Journey from Bakau

We began our journey from Bakau early in the morning. My guide, Yankuba, was once again by my side, and we set off on a scenic route that would take us through rural Gambian landscapes, zig-zagging between cows, goats, and donkeys that casually roamed the roads. The drive itself was an experience, as we passed small, vibrant villages with beautifully dressed locals in colorful traditional attire. These moments really showcased the rich culture of The Gambia, and I found myself admiring the simple yet joyful way of life in these communities.

Along the way, we encountered several police checkpoints. Even the Gambians don't fully understand why there are so many of them! From what I gathered, some officers hustle money from locals to let them pass. Fortunately, they didn't ask us for anything, so I think it's more common with the locals than with tourists.

Exploring Wassu Stone Circles

Our next stop was the Wassu Stone Circles, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most fascinating historical landmarks in The Gambia. These stone circles, which are believed to be ancient burial mounds, date back to the period between 750 AD and 1000 AD. The site holds deep historical and cultural significance for the region, and walking among the stones was a humbling experience.

Crossing the Gambia River

After spending time at Wassu and learning more about this incredible site, we continued our journey towards Janjanbureh (formerly Georgetown), crossing the mighty Gambia River. The ferry crossing was an adventure in itself—Gambians, tourists, vehicles, and even livestock were all packed onto the small ferry, making for an authentic and lively experience.

Lunch by the Roadside

Before reaching our final stop for the night, we had lunch by the side of the road, making delicious sandwiches using local Gambian bread—let me tell you, it was absolutely delicious! 

After a brief but satisfying meal, we were back on the road.

Staying at Kairoh Garden Lodge and the Chimpanzee Islands

Finally, we arrived at Kairoh Garden, where we would stay for the night. After settling into our rooms, we embarked on an unforgettable boat trip along the Gambia River. This part of the river is home to the famous "Chimpanzee Islands," a group of islands within the River Gambia National Park, also known as the Baboon Islands.

These islands have a fascinating history, primarily tied to the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project (CRP), which was initiated in 1979 by primatologist Stella Brewer. The project aimed to rehabilitate orphaned and captive chimpanzees and release them into a protected environment where they could live as close to the wild as possible. 

The islands are now a sanctuary for a semi-wild population of chimpanzees, and no direct human interaction is allowed.

The CRP has played a crucial role in conserving chimpanzees in West Africa, a region where they were nearly extinct. I've always dreamed of seeing chimpanzees in the wild, so being on this boat trip was truly a childhood dream come true.

Meeting Fellow Explorers

Later that evening, I had the pleasure of meeting a German couple who had driven all the way from Germany to The Gambia. Their journey was remarkable, and you can follow them here: 2onthego_. I also met another young couple embarking on their own journey of a lifetime. You can follow them here: hinundwiederweg.

Reflections and a Restless Night

As I wrapped up the day, I spent some time editing my photos and reflecting on the incredible experiences I had encountered. Despite the excitement, the night turned out to be quite challenging. The day had been scorching, with temperatures soaring to 40-42 degrees Celsius, and without air conditioning, my hut was stiflingly warm. The noisy ceiling fan didn't help, and I had very little sleep. But such is the experience when traveling—you take the good with the uncomfortable, and it all becomes part of the adventure.

Final Thoughts

Despite the rough night, I couldn't help but reflect on how amazing the day had been. It's important to remember that traveling to remote parts of the world won't always offer the comforts of home, but that's what makes it all the more rewarding. This day in The Gambia was another incredible chapter in my West African journey.