Yala National Park – The TEMU of Safaris
As a wildlife photographer, I travel to experience nature at its best — raw, wild, and respectfully observed. I don't just want to see animals; I want to feel the atmosphere, hear the birdsong, and hopefully capture meaningful moments through my lens without disturbing what's in front of me. That's why I had high hopes for Yala National Park in Sri Lanka. But unfortunately, what I experienced there was something else entirely — a chaotic, mass-tourism circus disguised as a safari.
The day started early. 04:00 early. I was up before the sun, and by 04:30, my new driver picked me up at my base in Beruwala for the 3-hour journey eastward to Yala. Luckily, this driver was nothing like the reckless one I had a few days earlier who nearly got me killed. This guy was chill, spoke good English, and had a light sense of humor that made the early morning drive fly by.
But from the moment we entered the park, something felt off...
The safari vehicles were of poor quality, and the overall energy among the guides was far from the calm, respectful tone you'd hope for on a nature outing. Engines revved, guides shouted, and trucks jostled for front-row views of the animals. It was like watching a group of bargain-hunting influencers fighting over the last discount toaster on Black Friday. I've seen a fair share of safaris in my life, and Yala felt like the TEMU of wildlife tourism — cheap, overcrowded, and wrapped in flashy marketing that doesn't reflect the actual experience.
Fortunately, I had my own vehicle. Past experience has taught me how essential this is — not only to give yourself space from the chaos, but also for the simple sanity of enjoying nature in peace.
At an early point, I asked my guide to drive far away from the madness. We found a quiet patch where the birds were calling and the animals grazed without being encircled by shouting humans and noisy trucks. And for a while, it felt like how a safari should feel.
Still, those moments were rare. What bothered me most wasn't even the bad infrastructure — it was the lack of respect for the animals. The guides seemed more interested in outcompeting each other for tips than caring for the wildlife or creating a meaningful experience. I watched them yell, argue, and speed around just to get five meters closer to a leopard — turning what should have been a quiet, awe-filled moment into a tasteless display. It reminded me of something I always say:
Shit doesn't taste good — even if you wrap it in glossy paper...
If you're wondering what animals you can see in Yala, here's a quick rundown. The park is home to elephants, crocodiles, sloth bears (which I came hoping to see but didn't), leopards, wild boar, sambar and spotted deer, buffalo, mongoose, jackals, and an impressive variety of birdlife. Yala is often marketed as one of the best places in the world to see leopards, and while sightings do happen, the cost of those sightings — in noise, stress, and tourist overload — is far too high in my book.
Would I recommend going on safari in Yala? Honestly, no. Even now, during what's considered the off-season, the chaos was overwhelming. I found it to be a stressful, poorly managed experience that felt more like ticking a box on a travel checklist than truly connecting with wildlife.
Nature deserves better. The animals deserve better. And frankly, so do we.
Tomorrow I'm heading to Bundala- and Udawalawe National Parks, and I truly hope they deliver something different. Something real.
Stay tuned...